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New to Vallarta?

Whale Watching on Banderas Bay

3/30/2019

 
Definitely one of the adventures in Puerto Vallarta you should not miss. It's now the end of March, and the end of the whale watching season. When planning your trip during the season (December 8th through end of March), budget for a day on the water and choose a reputable company - check out the reviews on Tripadvisor. We chose Ocean Friendly.  Their 4-hour tours are hosted by whale expert Oscar, photographer Fred and Captain Tony (pictured). It's a small group in an open boat, and you do get very close to the whales. Oscar provides running commentary in Spanish and English, and a lunch is provided. The only caveat - if you are susceptible to sea sickness, prepare in advance. I'm sure that's true for any Banderas Bay boating experience.

Taking whale photos is not easy. I encountered several challenges:

1. As the boat bobs up and down in the water, it's impossible to keep your lens in a fixed position, especially with a telephoto
2. The whales occasionally breach, but you never know exactly where or when. When it happens, and it only lasts a few seconds, you need to be prepared. Experience (which I don't have) helps.
3. Sometimes the whales are a distance from the boat, necessitating a long lens (say 300-400mm full-frame equivalent). But then at other times, you are literally on top of the whales, and you need a much shorter focal length.
4. You can get a little wet out there, so weatherproof equipment is very useful.
5. Sometimes the boat is positioned in such a way that the whales are directly in front of the sun - almost impossible to frame and focus a shot.

My solution was to bring a big kit with two bodies, three lenses and a tele-extender. I packed my Fujifilm XT-2 and XT-3 with these Fujinon lenses. Despite frantically switching cameras when we were surrounded by whales, I think I managed to snag a few decent shots - not bad for a first-time whale watching experience.

Lenses:

16-55mm f/2.8
50-140mm f/2.8
100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
XF1.4X TC​

Food & Dining

1/13/2019

 
Picture
Breakfast at Mi Cafe

"Don't you get tired of tacos?" a friend asks. In six trips I only had tacos once - the famous shrimp tacos el pastor - at El Barracuda, on the north side of the city, right on the beach. Of course there is no shortage of Mexican food here - but it's real Mexican food, fresh, delicious, and inexpensive. Want to try something different? So many great chefs in Vallarta, with a wide variety of world-class cuisines. The best apple strudel I ever had? Kaiser Maximilian rivals my grandmother. Amazing ceviche right on the beach at sunset? La Palapa. The Tripadvisor page alone lists 957 restaurants in Vallarta - you will never run out of gourmet adventures. French, sushi, steak, Italian, you name it.

There are many sources online to help you choose a place to eat. We have yet to explore so many of them - but for what it's worth, here is our current list of places we have enjoyed:

Mi Café (no website) Calle Francisco I. Madero 505. This is a great little spot for breakfast (we haven't tried it for lunch yet) and is about 5 minute walk from the condo.
see Google Maps. 

The Iguana at Casa Kimberly - this is more than dinner - it's an unforgettable experience. You don't have to be a fan of Elizabeth Taylor or Richard Burton to appreciate the way this house has been restored (and improved). The food is excellent, the service impeccable, and the views are stunning. Two warnings: not air conditioned (but you dine al fresco, there are fans and breezes), and you will pay American/Canadian prices; this is not a "budget-friendly" outing.

Café des Artistes - Another amazing fine dining experience - even more expensive than Casa Kimberly. No view here, but the interior is gorgeously decorated (and air conditioned). Everything is done to perfection - an excellent choice for those special occasions.

La Palapa - its location right on the beach (with extensive inside seating as well) might suggest that this is a casual spot for beer and burgers but in fact this is a very sophisticated dining experience. Of course you are dressed for the beach, but the service is professional and attentive, the menu inventive (don't miss the seafood), and the bar service is extensive.  Great for an afternoon drink or a torch-lit dinner party with friends.

Kaiser Maximilian - truth be told we have only been there for breakfast, but from what we can tell it is worth trying for dinner as well. The breakfasts are sophisticated and plated beautifully; the service is friendly and prompt (Jésus is a paragon of waiters). Not very expensive, the European touches are surprisingly authentic.

Cocos Kitchen - this is a more down to earth breakfast eatery, close to the beach and with one of the original trees of this arbor around which the restaurant was built. 

116 Pulpito Gastro Bar - a funky place with unique food presentations. Close to the beach on Basilio Badillo street ("Restaurant Alley") there are a few tables outside.

These are also great choices (there are far too many to list!)
​
  • Vino Da Vinci - attached to an amazing art gallery
  • El Barracuda - right on the beach, amazing tacos and seafood
  • Sea Monkey - great spot for people watching and enjoying a cerveza while on the Malecon
  • Lindo Mar (Hotel) - a south shore staple, right on the beach

Arriving by Air - Please Note

12/19/2018

 
Picture
The Puerto Vallarta airport is modern and convenient. Just watch out for time-share sharks!
A little knowledge in advance of your first trip will help keeps things very smooth. Rest assured that the PVR airport is modern, large, air conditioned, safe and well organized. (On the way home you will enjoy the food and shopping opportunities.) Here are the key things to bear in mind, in order of operation (These apply to travellers from Canada at the time of writing. Please check official sites before your departure.) :
  1. You get two forms on the plane. Each person gets their own individual IMMIGRATION form (also called Tourist Card or Forma Migratoria Múltiple (FMME)). Enter your information in the top part, and ENTER IT AGAIN in the smaller, bottom part.
  2. If you do not get a form on the plane, no worries you can get one at the airport and fill it out before getting in line.
  3. If you are adventurous you can try using an online service to print out the form before you travel - at your own risk: we have never tried that. See here  (official site) and here (commercial site).
  4. Unlike the immigration form, the CUSTOMS form is one per family.
  5.  When you get off the plane, you will line up first to go through Immigration. Show them your Tourist Card and Passport. They will stamp these documents and then hand back your passport with the bottom section of the Tourist Card inside. You must keep that card while you are in Mexico and then hand it over on your way out of the country.
  6. After Immigration you find your luggage carousel and pick up your luggage - it's usually waiting for you. Then join the line up for Customs (Aduanas). The officer will take your Customs card and ask you to push a button. If a light shows green, you are approved to enter the country. Congratulations! Proceed down the hall with confidence.
  7. If the light turns red, you must drag your luggage (and all handbags) onto a large table for inspection. The whole thing is quite cursory and only takes a minute. Once you are waved through (reminder to some Canadians - don't pack your cannabis). This website has detailed information on what you are allowed to import as a tourist.
  8. Now the important part. As you merrily make your way to the exit doors, you will pass through what looks like an official transportation and assistance centre. It is actually a Timeshare Gauntlet. All the smiling, jovial and friendly people are wearing official airport badges. They are offering to help you locate your waiting ride. They are offering free tequila shots, free whale watching tours, and restaurant discount coupons. But what they are really doing is getting you to agree to attend a timeshare presentation for a hard sell. Unless you are genuinely interested in a timeshare presentation, politely nod, say gracias, avoid eye contact, and walk right past.
  9. You are in the clear once you step outside the glass doors. Now, the sidewalk-jamming crowd of people in livery or with clipboards are legitimately looking for you - assuming you signed up for a pre-arranged ride to your destination. The people outside are all truly helpful and friendly, and despite the apparent chaos, you will find your ride - or they will find you: no need to panic.
  10. If you do not have a pre-arranged ride, yellow taxis are lined up in front of you. Depending on where you are going, they might charge you 300-400 pesos (roughly CAD$21-$28) for a ride. If you are on a budget, walk to your left, and you will see a pedestrian bridge over the highway. It has ramps so you can roll your luggage. At the bottom of the other side is a cab rank where the yellow taxis will charge you about half the airport price.  Agree on a price before getting in.
  11. I just found this excellent web page - which has a nice video to orient you to the airport experience, and lots of other helpful info.
​

    WELCOME

    Arriving at PVR for the first time can be overwhelming. Here are a few tips for the first 24 hours.

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Nothing in this site is intended as legal advice. Please check with local authorities for  information about travel and immigration. Also, restaurant reviews are my opinion only; please check menus and other reviews before trying a new place. 

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